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	<title>Simmer Till Done &#187; food writing</title>
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		<title>Tell Simmer: Food Writer Francis Lam</title>
		<link>http://simmertilldone.com/2009/04/27/tell-simmer-food-writer-francis-lam/</link>
		<comments>http://simmertilldone.com/2009/04/27/tell-simmer-food-writer-francis-lam/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Apr 2009 06:03:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Marilyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tell Simmer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food writing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Francis Lam]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://simmertilldone.com/?p=2585</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[So, a Gourmet writer with a sweetened condensed milk jones who&#8217;s admittedly spooned from the can? Indeed. Our mutual Elsie love is only one reason I&#8217;m hooked on the work of Francis Lam, a New York-based CIA grad who writes, cooks, travels, teaches food writing and, lucky for reading eaters, is frequently found in the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-2586 alignleft" title="Francis Lam's (three) tattoos" src="http://simmertilldone.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/picture-1-150x150.png" alt="Francis Lam's (three) tattoos" width="179" height="179" />So, a <em><a href="http://www.gourmet.com/">Gourmet</a></em> writer with a sweetened condensed milk jones who&#8217;s admittedly spooned from the can? Indeed. Our mutual Elsie love is only one reason I&#8217;m hooked on the work of Francis Lam, a New York-based <a href="http://www.ciachef.edu/">CIA</a> grad who writes, cooks, travels, teaches food writing and, lucky for reading eaters, is frequently found <a href="http://www.gourmet.com/profiles/francis_lam/search?contributorName=Francis%20Lam">in the pages of <em>Gourmet</em></a>.  His addictive pieces feature an ear to the ground and two hands on the table, covering everything from <a href="http://www.gourmet.com/food/2008/11/ginger-scallion-sauce">Ginger Scallion Sauce</a> to the <a href="http://www.gourmet.com/food/2009/03/new-york-to-mississippi-minute-senegalese-food">dining habits of African cabbies.</a> For lack of a better term I&#8217;ve tagged him <em>food writer</em> &#8211; but any Francis story is part chef, part jester, part observer of delicious condition. Be sure to ask him about <a href="http://www.gourmet.com/magazine/2000s/2008/03/omelet">perfect omelets</a>, Egyptian <a href="http://www.gourmet.com/food/2009/03/koshary-recipe">koshary</a>, and what&#8217;s on those three tattoos.</p>
<p><strong><em>How often do you think about eating?</em></strong></p>
<p>I suppose the cool food kid thing to say would be, &#8220;I think about dinner before I wake up,&#8221; or something like that. But you know what the real answer is?  Too often.  I&#8217;m serious.  I&#8217;d rather I&#8217;d saved some of my brain cells for, like, how to show my parents that I love them instead of where I&#8217;m going to have a taco next.<br />
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<em><strong>Coffee craving?</strong></em></p>
<p>I like my coffees fruity and bright when I&#8217;m drinking them by themselves, and a little richer and chocolate-ier when I&#8217;m having them with sweets, because those are the coffees that tend to bloom the flavor of flour and fat. I like my coffee almost always at around 2 or 3 in the afternoon.  I like my coffee then because I like it after meals, and also because if I have it in the morning on an empty stomach I will feel like a crazy person all day long.  A crazy person.  All day long.</p>
<p><strong><em>Favorite hometown food?</em></strong></p>
<p>I guess I&#8217;m not sure what you mean by &#8220;hometown,&#8221; but if you mean &#8220;where you grew up,&#8221; I&#8217;d take you to Livingston, NJ, and buy you some wursts at Kramer&#8217;s Pork Store, in large part because the other tenant in its building is Jerusalem West Kosher Restaurant.  Many crises of conscience have been had in its parking lot.</p>
<p><strong><em>Ever been served breakfast in bed?</em></strong></p>
<p>If I have, it was served by my mother, and I was probably barfing either not long before or after.  What I&#8217;m saying is that there was very little romance in it.</p>
<p><strong><em>Your absolutely reliable, go-to dish for entertaining is:</em></strong></p>
<p>I actually don&#8217;t have very many things I make over and over.  Usually I buy something that looks good and cobble together a meal out of it and whatever happens to be lying around.  But I guess the single thing I&#8217;ve fed to the most people is <a href=" http://www.gourmet.com/food/2007/09/ripe_tomato2">my late-season ratatouille.</a> By the way, thanks for the opportunity for me to remember and go back to that post.  I just found, fully a year and a half after I wrote it, that someone finally logged in to comment!  They said, &#8220;Not too appetizing.&#8221; I didn&#8217;t even earn a complete sentence.</p>
<p><strong><em>Food that makes you gag?</em></strong></p>
<p>Apologies, but I&#8217;m going to recycle the answer I gave <a href="http://www.eatdrinkonewoman.com/">Ganda</a>: &#8220;Mid-grade fake food.  How do I explain?  Take macaroni and cheese: Macaroni with real cheese?  Delicious.  Macaroni with orange powder made into a buttery slurry?  Delicious.  Velveeta?  Fucking atrocious.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong><em>Worst kitchen disaster:</em></strong></p>
<p>We were a half-hour into dinner service when I realized the lunch prep guy was either delusional or lying when he told me he hooked up a whole bunch of mushroom strudels for me.  It was totally my fault. I didn&#8217;t check.  Now I was three orders from running out, the restaurant&#8217;s owner was coming in for dinner in 10 minutes, and my partner on the station burned herself going into the oven, dropping our last-ditch attempt at redemption all over the floor.  I survived that night, but did not conduct myself with dignity or honor.</p>
<p><em><strong>Three things in your refrigerator right now:</strong></em></p>
<p>Parmigiano Reggiano, smuggled Chinese ham, an unsustainable quantity of butter.</p>
<p><strong><em>Your idea of a romantic meal is:</em></strong></p>
<p>One where the person you&#8217;re with wants to be there exactly as much as you do.</p>
<p><strong><em>Secret snack of shame?</em></strong></p>
<p>Screw that.  You like something, own up to it.</p>
<p><strong><em>Most ambitious thing you&#8217;ve done in the kitchen:</em></strong></p>
<p>Telling my friend Christine that I wasn&#8217;t in love with her, but that if I thought it would be okay to, I would be in a heartbeat. I am.  She is, too.</p>
<p><strong><em>Best restaurant if you&#8217;re not paying:</em></strong></p>
<p>I was going to go off on some whole long thing about the importance of quality, about how a truly great restaurant &#8211; no matter how expensive &#8211; always feels like a value, and about how I would love to be so grounded that I wouldn&#8217;t mind not having the things that I can&#8217;t afford, but: Daniel.</p>
<p><strong><em>If you were a cocktail, what would you be?</em></strong></p>
<p>I&#8217;m not sure, but I like the sophistication of gin, the masculinity of whiskey, and the complexity of digestifs like <a href="http://www.gourmet.com/recipes/2000s/2007/05/cynarvermouthcocktails">Cynar</a>.  But really I&#8217;m probably more like apple juice.</p>
<p><strong><em>Extra Credit: Where is the world&#8217;s best pizza?</em></strong></p>
<p>The world is a big place, but the best pizza I&#8217;ve ever had is at DiFara&#8217;s.  Nobody cares about his pizza<a href="http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/99a7cbc0-dc9c-11da-890d-0000779e2340.html?nclick_check=1"> more than Dom DeMarco.</a><br />
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