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Strawberry Girl

Josie turned 14 last week. A teenager. Of course she was a teen last year, being 13 and all, and possibly even before that at 12, which I recall as spiked with previews. Still – if 13 has training wheels, then 14 speeds away. You can let it run you over, and you can also lay down and get run over again. These are the choices.

There’s good news, too. She’s wonderful, lovely and smart and funny, as she always has been. She is all those things and now more, independent and stubborn and debate-ready, on matters from politics to proper barrette placement, which, I’d forgotten, is crucial.

She does not have one answer. She has ten. On a truly inspired day, twelve.

Who was there? Well, so-and-so was there, and her friend, and nobody else. Nobody? Well, oh yeah, there was that guy, and his friend, and his little brother, but they’re boring. And someone’s mom dropped her off but then she had to leave, to go to yoga. And oh yes Emily was there but not that Emily, not the one you don’t like, the other one. There were tons of people I knew. Tons? But, you know, nobody else was there.

So the news, then, is that even when they are lovely-smart-funny, the pleasures of agreement are few. She thinks adults oversimplify, always assuming a situation is either perfect or totally awful. She says it’s all flexible, all open to possiblity. Nothing is just one way.

I called my mother the other day and asked, where is the reward here? What is it? Oh, Josie is my reward, she said. I was stunned. It’s not me? The adult me isn’t your reward? Well, she said, you are, but she’s the easiest reward.

I told her well, she’s quite complicated right now. Your own daughter takes longer, she said. You did.

One hot afternoon last week, first in a long line of scorchers, Josie got home from the pool and was sitting in the kitchen eating popcorn, briefly friend- and phone-free.  I pounced, and she couldn’t believe her luck: errands! She would join me on errands. Gas, dry cleaning, dog food place and the local co-op for eggs, asparagus, salad greens, fruit.  And because any errand-mate must act as my extra hands, on the way home it was Josie who held the small green basket, dropping tiny leaves and fine dirt in her lap, the first strawberries of the season.

The berries were misshapen and candy red, embroidered with yellow seeds. Josie cupped the basket, turning berries over with one finger, picking at curled green stems. Her hair was still wet and she wore friendship bracelets, the wrist code of teen girls: this is my favorite, these are my friends, that’s my design. I wore shorts, which I generally avoid up to August, and also a ponytail, in place through October. To me summer is a stack of camp forms, frizzy hair, bathing suit shopping, bug spray. Of course for most people summer, I know, is the golden child of seasons, joy without fuss. Josie was an unfussy baby, and later an unfussy child. Now she embraces its complications, this almost-high school life, juggling friends, algebra, parents, lockers, friends. Choices.

In the car she was quiet, rather suspiciously not asking for objects, rides or permissions. She wanted to get home, to zoom through dinner and reach dessert. Squinting through five o’ clock rays at the berries on her lap, I asked Josie: what should we do with them?

Should I make strawberry cobbler? Soak them in rum? Buttermilk strawberry cake, strawberry-rhubarb pie, strawberry rum sauce or ice cream or strawberry-banana crepes?

We should eat them, she said, and popped one. Just eat them.

And that is what we did.

Guest Blogger: Cleo

Five year old Cleo is our first quadruped guest blogger.

Skills: Sleeping, slobbering, ear-scratching. Being soft.

Likes: Josie, tennis balls, pumpkin biscuits, eating grass, pizza crust, chewing fur off behind, butter within reach.

Dislikes: Josie going to school, lack of pizza crust, humans talking too much, unfriendly cats, butter out of reach.

Loves: Josie

She doesn’t type, read, cook, bake or pay attention longer than five seconds, but Cleo has something to tell you:

Any idea what it is?

hazelnut mocha cherry torte
Fundraiser
forsythia
Forsythia
extremely faux macarons
Faux

Farm
how Cleo looks at a treat
Focus

———–

Fundraiser: Hazelnut Mocha Cherry Torte, made this week for a fundraising auction. Not pictured: extra mocha buttercream, made for sitting around my kitchen.

Forsythia: Now popping everywhere in shades of lemon meringue, forsythia rings in the season by dangling over porches and sidewalks, showing its aggressive, smiling best in April rain.

Faux: Faux macarons – cute, but extremely faux – macarons. An open bag of oyster crackers plus extra mocha buttercream prompted these tiny, salty-sweet, maddeningly painstaking treats. How to split an oyster cracker? Use the tip of a paring knife – then sandwich with a piped dab of buttercream or chocolate ganache.

Farm: Josie used this farm-animal bowl from babyhood, grabbing, then spooning, years of blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, granola, gummi bears, ice cream. And oyster crackers. Now it’s a measuring dish on my scale – no longer her serveware but as I couldn’t part with it, now it serves me.

Focus: Here, our tender-hearted Cleo stares at a single treat, undistracted by phone, music, chatter, Internet, blogs or doubt. She will not budge. She will sit as long as it takes. And who among us couldn’t use a dose of that?

Every season’s change, like pollen surfing a breeze, new readers float toward Simmer. I don’t know if it’s warm air, light rain or laptop-friendly sun, but something about spring equals something new to read.

So welcome new readers, pull up a chair. And ice cream. You’d think the best welcome mat would be a shiny new recipe, but not in this corner of the web, not so. I’d love you to stay, but first you should know what’s on tap: I talk about food. I talk about food, and my family, and my dog and also chefs, and I take pictures. I pretend I can draw.

Sometimes there are recipes, sometimes not. Frankly, it would be quite dull if not for marvelous friends and food-lovers who make up the Simmer community. Like real family they tolerate nonsense, and weird snacks, and repetition of tales. If you’re new here then this food story – with typical scribbles, and no recipes – will be new to you. If you’re an old-timer, well, forgive me. I do like a good repeat.

If you’ve arrived from this lovely Babble.com list, thank you. And come back soon.

A Deep-Seated Need originally posted March 30, 2009

first courseWe saw a movie years ago in which a housekeeper, played by Helen Mirren, notes she has the “gift of anticipation.” She knows what people need – or will need – long before they do and is tuned to their next requirement, be it refills or discretion. As she described her onscreen fate, I grabbed Greg’s arm in the theater, whispering “it’s me, it’s me!” Like Helen, Greg had seen it coming. “Mm…okay.” But the recognition was inspiring. “No, I mean it. I have the gift of anticipation.”

“Okay. Shh.”

“I have it!”

Later, he’d propose that what I shared with the housekeeper was not anticipation, but martyrdom. “That’s not how she described it,” I said, “and you know, everyone in the audience felt bad for her.”

“Yeah,” said Greg, “exactly.”

Whatever the name, it’s there: I know the bride will demand more icing, sleepover kid won’t like onions and wait, you’ll need water with that pill. Over-thinking, yes, but a particular brand, one of cause-and-effect, a mixed blessing. Being ready makes life smooth and being kind makes life good, but the constant pull of awareness can, and will, set you apart.
DSCN4258
It will poke you in small ways at the wrong times. At a recent dinner event I was seated between Greg and a smiling corporate publicist. She had blinding teeth and a still, groomed ponytail; she chatted left to right about running her last 10K, but I suspected that within the hour, she would need chocolate.

The first course was served in a synchronized flourish of plates. This was a fancy affair, with predictably affair-tall food, but I’m not easily impressed. Not that I’m jaded, really, because done right I’ll eat both high and low, but one day after chef school I stopped ooh-aahing every garnish and leaf.  Still, this course was lovely, presented to a room full of stylish diners feigning indifference to their glee.

Here is what they saw: chic edible puzzles arranged on white rectangular plates.
seafood first course
They saw two ceramic squares with wasabi and lemon herb sauce, and next to them, a Tiffany box-sized ice cube. A well down the center burst with upright crustaceans – one lobster tail, two speckled crab legs and two meaty prawns, fat as steaks from the sea. A twiggy iron fork harpooned it all together, and that was the first course. Gifts from the deep, one raw bar per person.

Here is what I saw: a waiter’s worst nightmare.

Even as oohs and aahs were stifled, I saw what hell this course would bring. The plating was so precise that it left no room for shells, lemon rinds, or tails. The rectangles were shallow and the giant ice cubes, already glistening, would soon melt across the dish and leave a small but briny sea. I glanced around the table; my well-heeled seatmates were diving in, cracking shells and dipping chunks. Water began to seep past plates and down the napkins, toward all those pressed pants. I turned to Greg – who was waiting for it - and leaned over.

“What.”

“It’s really nice…aren’t they nice?”

“Yes.”

“But…kind of a mess.”

He was pulling crab meat.

“The ice cubes. They’re melting all over. The plates are filling up.”

“Yes.”

“The waiters won’t be able to pick them up. They need room on the edge. The…crab shells are spiny.”

“And?”

“They’ll hurt their hands.”

He blinked. “The shrimp are great,” he said. “but there’s so much here.”

Why. Why? No one else was thinking shellfish wounds, or wet linens, or how to balance a dish full of arctic melt. They were just eating.

My PR neighbor cheerfully spooned drowning wasabi, but whispered in my ear about her severe obsession with chocolate. Seated among them I wished for a different head, oblivious and nicely level, but it did not come. Resigned, I picked up the skinny wet spear and ate my beautiful seafood, and since it wasn’t exactly tragedy and since I am no martyr, I did not further discuss what might happen.
seafood first course, after
Even though, of course, it all did.

—————————

* Sketches? Well my friends, turns out there are some places where it seems – gasp – inappropriate to photograph food, and this was the best I could do. Given the end scene of struggling waiters and dirty sea water, I kind of wish I had.

Still Simmering

Yes, I’m here.

And no, I’ve not abandoned blogging. I haven’t vanished, nor fallen off the earth or into a ditch by the side of the road. Though certainly, I appreciate the concern – voiced by many of you dear souls – that I could be, I’m not. I am in fact just where we left off: squinting at a laptop, coffee to the left, Cleo near my feet and two steps from the kitchen.

So then, where have I been?
coffee and blogs
As noted, mostly here. I’ve been working on the work of writing – a few projects, each requiring keyboard, coffee, and 10% nuts-90% chocolate trail mix. Nothing to announce. Just send love, luck, and extra chocolate chips.

We spent Josie’s spring break here:
KU in Times Square
Of course, not in this spot, not the whole time.
Chinatown
We were also here
duck roasting in Chinatown
And eating, here
2nd Avenue Deli lunch
And oh please more, here.

We had wonderful meals in NYC and met up with new and old friends, including Amanda and Merrill, the brilliant ladies of food52
Amanda & Merrill, breakfast at Morandi
…and surrounded by waves and sky, one great big grande dame.
lady liberty

Back home, Simmer’s been hopping around the web. Both PaulaDeen.com and Flashlight Worthy Books featured our Great Reads for Culinary Kids (and Hungry Adults) lists, and the New York Daily News blog Mothership Meals tapped Two-Bite Jam Tarts as a baking pick for picky kids.

So there we are. How pleasurable to speak fluent Simmer again, an odd language I use when talking to a warm, invisible group that’s not invisible at all. Still simmering, and glad you’re here.

rockefeller center, me & my girl

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