Mandelbread: Plain Perfect
Aug 27th, 2008 by Marilyn
Mandelbread – or mandelbrodt, literally, almond bread – was my first solo cookie. Eight years old and alone with cousin Dana’s 3 x 5 card, the mess should have meant disaster. But they came out well, happy and fragrant, a miracle. I kept baking.
Mandelbread are the Jewish biscotti – maybe a little sweeter, crisp but not rocky and always baked twice. It’s an easy dough to mix and rolls like shiny buttered clay.
Mandelbread loaves are good for small hands.
And it’s fun to watch the cookies get sliced by bigger hands.
In the oven, they smell like a bakery – one room with racks, where the night kitchen fogs the sidewalk with cinnamon and flour. A shop where someone holds your hand and the first cookie is free.
A sprinkling and back to the oven. For big eyes, a second wait…
…and they’re done.
They will go to the new baby’s house. They will get dipped in your uncle’s coffee, unwrapped in the dorm, munched over papers. They will comfort on the funeral table. Mandelbread is a cookie you can’t live without, but of course that’s because I never have – and why would I want to try? Every family has that plate of something and to me, the humble slice is plainly perfect.
Mrs. DuBois’ Yummy Mandelbread
This recipe is adapted from a favorite and extremely dirty spiral-bound community book. It was proudly contributed by one Mrs. E. DuBois, who dubbed them Yummy Mandelbread. Thanks, Mrs. DB – they are.
1/4 lb (one stick) butter, softened at room temperature
1 heaping tablespoon soft shortening *
1 cup granulated sugar
3 eggs
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 cup toasted whole almonds, chopped (optional)
for sprinkling:
cinnamon
dash nutmeg
granulated sugar
Preheat oven to 375 F.
Use an electric mixer to cream the butter and shortening. Stop to scrape the bowl and add the vanilla and almond extracts. Continue beating butter mixture until creamy and well-combined. Add the sugar and eggs, one at a time, to smooth.
In a separate bowl, combine dry ingredients to blend – flour, salt, baking soda and baking powder.
Add dry ingredients to the butter mixture, beating on low speed until dough is just combined. If using chopped almonds, add nuts to dough and briefly mix, just long enough to evenly distribute.
Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead briefly to smooth. Divide dough into four equal parts. Using both hands, roll each piece of dough into a cylinder, each about as long as your cookie sheet and approximately 2″ wide.
Transfer dough cylinders to prepared cookie sheets (greased or parchment-lined), two per sheet and spaced at least 2″ apart. Using the palm of your hand, flatten the cylinders slightly, working down each length until done.
In a small bowl, mix equal parts cinnamon and sugar to make about 1/2 cup. Add a generous dash of nutmeg and mix to blend.
Sprinkle cinnamon sugar over each rolled dough strip. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until strips are golden and just firmed up. Remove from oven and cool until safe to handle.
Using a thin serrated knife, cut each strip on the diagonal to form approx. 18-20 pieces. Arrange cut pieces on the cookie sheets and sprinkle generously with cinnamon sugar. Return cookies to oven until golden brown and tops appear dry, about 15 minutes. Watch carefully and do not over-brown. Cool on racks and enjoy!
Mandelbread keeps very well at room temperature, sealed in plastic bags, up to a week. For longer storage, they freeze beautifully.
* resist the urge to omit the tablespoon of shortening. Mandelbread are frequently made with vegetable oil or shortening – Mrs. DuBois actually named “Spry” – so as to remain kosher, using neither meat nor milk. Many modern versions use butter, but a small amount of shortening keeps the cookie texture light. Crisco’s soft “sticks” measure easily and mix well.
What great writing. My favorite line is this: “…where the night kitchen fogs the sidewalk with cinnamon and flour.”
Jayne, I always know that when I post late, you’ll likely be the first to read – and if you ever gave up the night shift, I believe I’d shut it down.
Thanks for introducing me to mandelbread. I was completely unfamiliar with this biscotti-like treat, and it sounds like the perfect thing for my daughter and I to make together, especially now that she’s developing an interest in baking.
I get to spend tomorrow evening at an amusement park with my future inlaws. Could I have 3 of them? One to chew on and 2 to stick in my ears…
what a lovely cookie! and don’t worry–i never have an urge to omit shortening.
Mandelbread was part of my family’s tradition, too. In fact, it’s the only cookie I ever remember my grandmother baking, and she was the primary cook in my extended family. Reading your post brings back wonderful memories for me.
From some angles, it almost looks like a French baguette dipped in cinnamon sugar. (Which I suppose would not be all that bad.) But I love the look of these and I can’t wait to taste some! Thanks for sharing the recipe. Bookmarking this.
I am such a biscotti baker, now these come along! I shall broaden my biscotti horizon and bake these yummy things…….soon. Now that the weather in KC has cooled to “so bearable”, I won’t get so much heat from everyone for using the oven. Hot weather slows the oven baking down, but it does not stop it. Thanks for the great post. Nella
I have never tried a biscotti type cookie. I should.
Sandie: it is a great cookie to make with kids – fun to shape the loaves and even more fun to eat.
Jean: I’ll send a dozen. You may need extra.
Grace: I’ve never exactly shied away from extra fat, myself. “Baking” and “no-fat” just kind of don’t mix, eh?
Lydia: as you’ve noted, taste does hold memory. Glad to bring it back.
JS: they are so simple and the shapes are lovely! Hope you enjoy.
Nella: isn’t it great the fall will be here soon? Bread puddings, pecan pie, hot chocolate? Oh…fall gets me worked up. Please come soon!
Jenni: biscotti-type cookies (and there are many, every culture seems to have one) are nicely uncomplicated and the perfect thing to dip in coffee and tea. I think you’ll like it – and save one (un-sugared, of course) for Puppy.
But where’s Dana’s recipe? I had some of hers this winter and they were delicious. Yours must be fabulous. I always thought mandelbread had to be crunchy and dry . . .
Until I had Dana’s, I mean.
I didn’t realize there is such a thing as “Jewish Biscotti.” I learn something new every day!
Just discovered your blog and I feel like we are going to become great friends
Love, love, LOVE the way you say that mandel bread will be unwrapped in the dorm, munched over papers, and provide comfort on the funeral table. It is such a pedestrian cookie, but your description makes it seem like a poet’s dream treat. You are the mandel bread’s PR person extraordinaire! Can you do the same for the lowly, short and squat Babka?